I had a chance to do some more measurements today: Again, the system: 2X80 Sharp solar panels, BP (Steca) GCR 2000 regulator, 2X80AH Lifeline AGM batteries, OzeFridge refrigerator exclusively on load terminals of regulator. When I left the boat yesterday, and when I arrived today, the status light was flashing red on on the regulator; I've since RTFM and know now this means low battery voltage, not solar fault. 130PM Measured battery voltage at regulator: 13.65 (this is not low!) Measured voltage at solar input to regulator:.69.74 volts Disconnected and separated panels. Starbord panel: 20 V Port panel: 20.5 V Battery V 13.2 Reconnected everything; checked other terminals and + terminal block to battery tightened 1/2 turn. Dxcpl.exe Fifa 15. Status light on regulator now green.
Battery voltage and the voltage measured directly off the panels seems fine. I am confused by the solar V.is this a reading from the regulator? My understanding is the the amps would taper off as the battery reaches capacity, but the charge voltage has to remain above the battery voltage so it can 'push' the charge in. Also, i am not sure why your battery voltage would increase while the solar voltage drops.
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Is still think the regulator could have problems, unless its all fine and you're misreading something. When it comes to wiring, i am as dodgy as they come (for my own stuff) (see attached). Best to get an expert to do it if you have doubts. Max Attachments amateur wiring.
I have a very strong feeling that the behaviour is normal. Somehow the regulator is driving the solar panel voltage toward zero as charging requirement goes to zero and if the load current goes toward zero. I also think the fault light (battery voltage low) is a false indication; MAY be due to loose connection. However, I cannot go offshore with ANY 'maybe' on solar plant. Sooooo: I'm going to get an amp meter to put into the circuit and do some tests.
In this order unless you suggest otherwise: 1. Across the OC solar panels in bright sun to test output. In series on the positive lead of the solar panels and the input to the regulator 3. As above then start the fridge compressor 3.
In series on the positive terminal between the regulator and the battery. In series on the positive terminal between the regulator and the load.
Do I assume you'll get notified when I post the results? Steve Solar Supporter Posts: 10 Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:16 pm. Short circut is a dead short across the output, voltage will be very low. Maximum power from a panel is the combination of volts X amps that gives the highest value, it will be higher than your battery volts. Look up the specs for your panels and there should be a curve showing amps vs volts, with the maximum power point indicated on the curve, just before it curves steeply down at the high volts end. You cant easily measure that point without specialised equipment, but MPPT regulators aim to operate at that point. PWM regulators are not able to harness the maximum power available from a panel.
Well, I finally received my clamp-type amp meter in the post and after 4-5 days of rainy, heavily overcast weather, I went down to the boat to re-take the readings/measurements from my solar setup. My 'shipboard' system consists of two sharp 80W panels connected in parallel to a BP rebadged (Steca) regulator, charging two 80AH AGM batteries.
On the load side I have an OzFridge eutectic refrigerator which draws about 6 amps per hour for about 4 hours per day. The problem I've had is that the information LED on Steca regulator regularly goes to a flashing red state and this, according to the manual, means that the load has been disconnected from the regulator due to low battery volts. Three weeks ago I disconnected every thing, checked all the connections and reset (all LED's flashing green) the system.
Today, a bright sunny day at 2PM, when I got down to the boat, the information LED on the regulator was flashing red. The battery level LED was flashing green indicating 'full battery.' I checked the fridge, and everything was cold. Shortly after I arrived the fridge compressor turned on so obviously, the fridge was working and not disconnected from the load. Before the compressor turned on I took the following measurements: 2PM Output from solar panels 2.4V (across the solar input terminals on the regulator) Battery Volts: 13.8V (across the batter terminals on the regulator) Load Volts: 13.7 V (across the 'load' terminals on the regulator i.e.
The connection from the fridge) Unfortunately, I did not have time to check amperage before the compressor started running. However, see readings that I took after it shut off.